T was 1 a.m. and sunny when Ben Saunders, a
young British adventurer, stumbled giddily into the mess tent at
Camp Borneo, a way station for thrill seekers, scientists and
extreme tourists 60 miles from the North Pole.
Sodden and chilled, he had just completed 13 solitary days of
skiing, swimming and trudging to and from the top of the world,
towing provisions and gear 120 miles in a sledge across the
crack-laced ice floes.
Now that he was safe and warm, what was the first thing to do?
He did not join the French trekkers, South Korean skiers and
Russian skydivers celebrating Russian Orthodox Easter with boiled
eggs and rounds of vodka.
Instead, Mr. Saunders, 25, sat down at a table, pulled out his
palm-size iPaq digital assistant, his pocket-size Global Positioning
System locator, his satellite phone and his digital camera and began
updating his Web site, http://www.northpole2003.com/.
Such is the state of exploration these days.
In the last four years, ever lighter electronics and a growing
grid of world-girdling satellites, along with a network of
programmers, tinkerers and trekkers, have brought real-time
connectedness to the world's most remote places. "G.P.S. and
satellite phones have kind of revolutionized the whole thing," Mr.
Saunders said.
Some technology is used as it comes off the shelf, while some is
customized in an endless quest for the best performance at the
lightest weight, said Tom Sjogren, a co-owner of Explorersweb, a
Manhattan-based company supplying software, hardware and a home on
the Internet to Mr. Saunders and others at the world's last
frontiers (http://www.explorersweb.com/).
When a trekker must drag or carry everything needed for, say, a
two-month trek to the Pole, every ounce counts. Each additional
pound of gear supplants a pound of food, about half a day's
rations.
Mr. Sjogren and his wife and business partner, Tina, both 43,
have a toilet-paper distributorship in their home country, Sweden,
but got into the trek technology business as they ventured to both
poles and up Mount Everest and other daunting peaks. They longed to
share each step, both virtually through constantly updated Web pages
and by devising specialized communications gear, he said.
But conventional laptops were too heavy, hand-held organizers
were incompatible with satellite phones, and batteries of all kinds
faltered in the polar deep freeze. They enlisted programmers and
engineers around the world to force devices to talk to one another,
then tested them by taking them on extreme ski treks and climbs.
Sometimes the solutions are simple, Mr. Sjogren said. For
instance, custom-built holders generating 12 volts from batches of
AA Energizer lithium batteries proved superior to every other type
of power storage. Others have involved elaborate combinations of
custom-made software and jury-rigged cables and connectors.
Ms. Sjogren said their expeditions have been followed, minute to
minute, by students, by a family in California who built a mock
Everest base camp in the basement, and by cancer patients. "They're
battling their own battles, and can tune in on our troubles, doubts,
and fears while they in turn inspire us," she said.
Mr. Saunders is among the Sjogrens' customers, using a
custom-designed communications kit - a yellow weatherproof box of
gear can cost around $3,000, or can be rented - and relying on their
Web sites as well as his to post daily logs. He and dozens of other
adventurers now routinely use the Internet to promote their exploits
and the products of sponsors that provide gear and financial
backing.
It has become something of a competition to see who can transmit
the most information and imagery the most quickly, with an intense
race, for example, unfolding in recent days on the flanks of Mount
Everest, where Chinese and American video crews vied to be the first
to broadcast live television from the summit. The Chinese won.
The technology itself has also greatly increased the number of
expeditions to the world's farthest reaches.
Indeed, Camp Borneo, which is built on the ice each spring by
Russian and French entrepreneurs mainly to serve wealthy tourists,
probably would not be attracting its annual complement of about 200
visitors a year without such technology.
Pilots flying from Siberia or Norway with the latest batch of ski
trekkers or Champagne-toting tourists know precisely where the
drifting camp and ice-carved airstrip sit because of constant
telephone updates of G.P.S. coordinates from the camp manager.
The advent of simple, relatively cheap satellite telephones
(calls cost about $1 a minute) permits nervous newcomers the
remarkable indulgence of being able, with a few touch-tones, to chat
with a relative while at the Pole.
Still, each of Earth's harshest spots offers special constraints.
The towering Himalayas preclude the use of the most popular
telephone system, Iridium, which relies on satellites in orbits that
are easily blocked by the soaring peaks.
But climbers there can now stay in touch by using Thuraya, a new
telephone system that links users through a satellite in an orbit
that is synchronized with the earth's rotation, so it is always over
Asia.
Since it is all ocean, the North Pole has no hills to get in the
way of Iridium signals, but the shifting ice means that visitors had
better be prepared to get their gear wet. And the sub-zero cold in
March and April - the only time there is light but the ice is not
yet breaking up under the summer sun - quickly drains batteries and
freezes liquid-crystal displays.
Even G.P.S. becomes virtually useless right at the pole, where
all longitudes converge. A single step can take one from the
longitude of, say, Paris, to that of Honolulu.
Still, the advent of packages of software and hardware adapted to
these extremes has eased the way for a substantial expansion of
extreme trekking.
Knowing your location and being able to communicate are just the
basics. Contact 2.0, the software developed by the Sjogrens, allows
Mr. Saunders and others like him, whether on floating ice or the
flanks of Everest, to send images, video clips and text directly to
their Web pages. There is no need for a Webmaster or other
intermediary to receive an e-mail message or attachment.
The Sjogrens said the need for this kind of automation became
apparent during a recent Everest expedition when their Webmaster
went on vacation just as they were approaching the summit.
While getting to know Everest in the late 1990's, they had also
noted that the companies leading the big professional expeditions
did not share weather forecasts with small groups like theirs, Ms.
Sjogren said.
Now, Explorersweb provides text-message alerts to climbers'
satellite phones, using precise Himalayas forecasts supplied by the
Swedish government and a private forecasting service.
On Everest and in Antarctica, the Sjogrens have experimented with
wireless systems that could eventually allow individual climbers to
transmit images and their positions to a base camp and then onto the
Web.
Mr. Sjogren said the Defense Department and firefighting groups
were tracking their work with the idea that such methods might be
adapted to reduce accidental troop casualties or to track emergency
workers in buildings or in dense smoke.
Other options allow the outside world to track a trekker's
movements. An explorer might, for example, take along a small
transmitter like those used to monitor the migrations of rare
wildlife, from elephant seals off Patagonia to the reclusive forest
elephants of the Congo basin.
A French company, CLS, uses satellite networks to monitor the
position and condition of explorers carrying the device. The version
used by adventurers can send 10 different signals and, with
prearranged codes, alert a support team to changing conditions.
Pen Hadow, a veteran Arctic guide and mentor to Mr. Saunders, had
such a transmitter with him when a small airplane plucked him from
the rapidly warming and cracking North Pole ice on May 27.
Mr. Hadow had finished what apparently was the first solo unaided
trek from North America to the Pole but had then been stranded there
for more than a week, his rations dwindling as foul weather
prevented any flying.
Long after the last battery for his Iridium telephone died,
satellites could still pinpoint his position every 20 minutes, and
he was able to continue sending coded messages indicating his
condition.
The last code he sent was the number 5, which - in understated
British fashion - encouraged his support team to prevent him from
starving by conveying simply that he was "contemplating
resupply."
Even with the best technology, though, life at the planet's edges
will not lose its hazards anytime soon.
Although Mr. Hadow's drifting position was known and satellite
images on government Web sites provided frequent updates on storm
fronts and ice cracks, the plane could not land to retrieve him
until dense polar clouds slowly moved on.