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November 24, 2000

In Mexico, a Man With a Badge Isn't the Good Guy

By GINGER THOMPSON

MEXICO CITY, Nov. 23 — Ramiro Ayala Zambrano and his wife, Edith, have raised four children in a gritty barrio brimming with violence and corruption, so they know an outlaw when they see one.

In their eyes, the worst criminals here in a neighborhood called Tepito are not the thousands who sell stolen stereos, handguns, endangered birds or pirated videocassettes from the maze of concession stands that crowd the sidewalks. The couple is most afraid of the few dozen bad guys who prowl in police uniforms.

Most days, Mr. Ayala said, police officers show up to put pressure on unlicensed merchants for bribes, or to sell them information about raids being planned at police headquarters. The officers turn a blind eye to open attacks by delinquents against tourists, he said.

But they sporadically search men from the area for drugs without any legitimate cause for suspicion, and threaten to take the innocent to jail unless they hand over the money in their pockets.

What results is a smoldering disrespect for the police and a challenge for the government of the president- elect, Vicente Fox Quesada, as he tries to exert authority and bolster the rule of law.

The perception of police officers as crooks with badges has ignited violence in various places in Mexico in recent months, including a riot by hundreds of people in Tepito.

"Police corruption helped generate all the illegality that exists in Tepito," Mr. Ayala said as he chopped meat for tacos to sell during the lunch hour. "It's true that no one trusts them, but what is even more dangerous is the resentment people feel. A lot of times that resentment explodes."

Police officers are viewed as outlaws more than public servants among many people in this overpopulated, smog-choked capital. But Barrio Bravo in Tepito, a rogue community where the Spanish word for brave more accurately means belligerent, offers a window into the combustible mix of frustration, distrust and anger that people feel for the police.

Here, people do not silently suffer their disrespect. They fight back.

The most recent clash occurred Nov. 16 after the police conducted an early morning raid and seized more than 5,000 appliances and electronic goods that were believed to have been stolen.

A furious mob of hundreds emerged from their homes and shops, throwing bottles, rocks and gasoline bombs. As the police tried to flee, mobs blocked the streets with buses so the confiscated merchandise could not be hauled away. Shots were fired, although it is not clear by whom, and as the officers fled, they sprayed the crowd with tear gas.

For the next nine hours, mobs of young men vandalized any cars and businesses in their paths. It was a scene reminiscent of the Los Angeles riots, with drivers bashed in the face and pulled kicking from their cars and gangs of boys hurling rocks into storefronts.

After nightfall more than 1,200 police officers in riot gear stormed the streets to establish order in Tepito. With no one killed and only two people injured, Mayor Rosario Robles praised the operation as a success.

But residents considered it mostly a flop. The huge show of force yielded only 20 arrests. Nine of those detained were federal and local law enforcement officers, accused of having protected the stash of stolen goods.

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